FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

How much water is lost to evaporation depends on factors such as the pump flow, the number and height of waterfalls, and sunlight exposure. The first step is to know the volume of the pond per inch. Use the formula Length x Width x .75 x .0833 x 7.48. Next, find out how much you should be losing, which is .5-1% of your pump's flow rate. So for a 15' x 20' pond, we have about 140 gallons per inch. For a newer pond (minimal lily pad and plant shade) in full sun with a 5,000gph pump, we have 50 gallons of loss per day. So 140 gallons per inch / 50 = 2.8. You would average 1" of water loss every 2.8 days.

99% of leaks are not due to a hole in the liner but rather water running over the edge of the liner.

Do not try to investigate a leak if the ground is wet from rainfall or recently after an irrigation system has run.

STEP 1: The most common leak is water running over the liner. Look around the stream and waterfall for areas that have settled. Look for wet mulch or wet gravel along the edge. Sometimes it is necessary to inspect the areas under the mulch, as water can run down a fold in the liner and never leave a trace on the surface. If you have recently had plantings installed or have been walking around the edge of the liner, you may have accidentally stepped down part of the liner, causing water to leak out in the low spot. To fix a low liner edge, build the liner back up by backfilling and compacting the soil beneath the liner. This will raise the edge of the liner above the water level. Cover the liner with pond gravel, and you are done.

STEP 2: Look for obstructions in the stream and waterfalls. If you have recently adjusted some of the rocks to change the sound or look of a waterfall, you may have inadvertently caused some of the water to be diverted over the liner. Also, look for excessive planting or algae growth in the stream that causes dams that allow water to flow over the edge. If you use any floating plants in your Biofalls, inspect the area occasionally as the volume of plantings raises the water level and can cause water to leak over the back or side edge of the Biofalls.

STEP 3: Can’t find the leak yet? Shut down the main pump and leave it off for 12 or more hours. Make sure to perform this test during the nighttime hours or on a very cloudy day, so evaporation does not fool you in your leak test. Make a small mark on the skimmer or rock somewhere at the water line. After a minimum of 12 hours, check to see if the water level has dropped below your mark. If you have fish in your pond and will have the pump off for more than 12 hours, we recommend you use a small aerator pump to provide oxygen to the fish. If the water level has dropped, you know the leak is in the pond. If the water level remains the same, the leak is elsewhere in your system. Leave the pump off and wait until the water level stops dropping. This could take several days. The water level will continue to drop until the leak is at the water line. When the water level stops dropping, you have determined the height of the leak. Simply investigate the water line all the way around the pond. It takes a sharp eye, and you may need to move many rocks to spot the leak. Don’t forget to check the area around the skimmer face plate! Use the wet soil method behind the liner and around the skimmer.

Still can’t figure out the leak? Contact Proscapes and schedule a service call. Try to give us as much information as possible so we can quickly assess the problem and fix it for you.

First, investigate if the leak occurs when the pump is off. You should never fill the basin past half full with the pumps on or the system will overflow upon shutdown. With the pumps on, half full is considered full. Never overfill the basin or leave the hose unattended. Leaving a hose on and overfilling the feature may float your basin blocks and liner.

1. Turn off the pump and fill the pondless basin up to the top and mark the level.

2. Let the basin sit for 24 hours & check the water level.

3. If the level has dropped the leak is in the basin. If it has not, investigate as above under “How do I find out where the leak is?”

4. Refill the basin a few inches and verify it drops to the same level. This level is where the leak will be found.

Follow the instructions below, or we can do it for you!

~ Bacteria and enzymes should be added periodically per directions. The debris net should be emptied weekly or bi-weekly, depending on the surrounding environment.

~ Clean the skimmer filter mats when the flow is noticeably reduced. Replace your filter mats every other season.

~ Remove the pump and clean the intake screen and or impeller if it becomes clogged.

~ Perform a spring cleanout every year. Pump out the water and gently wash all sludge/debris to the pond floor to be pumped out. Refill the pond and add de-chlorinator before reintroducing fish.

~ Regularly replace 10% of the pond water.

~ Ensure 50-60% plant coverage, including shoreline plants that will filter runoff.

~ Test your water frequently.

~ Test your soil before fertilizing to prevent over-fertilizing and runoff into the pond; minimize using fertilizers on the banked slopes of ponds.

~ Pick up pet waste.

~ Don’t feed wild turtles, other aquatic wildlife, or waterfowl (let them find their own food).

In Wisconsin, fish will do fine if your pond is at least 24 inches deep and your surface is not entirely frozen. Whether the Biofalls needs to be shut down depends on how cold the winter gets.

~ Remove pump and store

~ Place deicing pump, heater, and/or aeration in pond

~ Remove, clean, and store:

• Biofalls mats and media

• skimmer mats

• skimmer debris basket

~ Install floating heater and\or an Aquaforce solids handling pump

~ Cut back marginals

~ Clean pond floor if muck build-up is excessive

A severe algal bloom can kill fish because the death and decay of the algae severely reduces oxygen levels. Cyanobacteria (blue-green algae), in particular, is a bright green film-producing alga that is toxic to fish and wildlife. An overabundance of algae could be due to:

~ Overstocking/overfeeding fish. We recommend stocking no more than 1” fish per 20 gallons of water to prevent ammonia buildup.

~ Under-circulation and under-filtering from a pump and filter that is too small. Use the proper-sized pumps and filters and over-circulate to turn over the water volume every 1.5 hours.

~ An immature pond (give it a couple of months to establish its ecosystem). If your pond is new, creating a balanced ecosystem won’t happen overnight (bacteria take 2-6 weeks to colonize and begin to do their job). Like a fine wine, ponds mature with age, so don't be surprised or concerned if a new pond begins to grow some algae. Once the plants, fish, and bacteria are established, the algae will decrease.

~ Runoff and/or heavy rain: closed systems do not handle unintended input.

~ Runoff that contains excessive lawn fertilizers or animal wastes (encourages cyanobacteria growth)

~ Algae blooms occur in yearly cycles that may be dependent on weather. In colder climates, both plants and bacteria go dormant in cold water, creating less competition for nutrients and advantageous conditions for algae growth. The pond may turn green or become full of string algae in winter. Once the temperatures warm up, the plants and bacteria will begin to establish themselves once again, and the pond ecosystem will balance itself.

Algae needs very little sunlight to grow. Providing shade will help stabilize the pond temperature but has little to no effect on algae. Algae do love warm water, though, so adding shade will lower and stabilize your pond temperature.

Decomposing bacteria and introduced bacteria (the bottled bacteria) are all heterotrophic bacteria. These bacteria consume organic, nitrogenous material like plants, debris, and dead fish as their source of food and carbon source—a process called aerobic bacterial decomposition, or what we call decay or rot. These bacteria can be either anaerobic or aerobic and are capable of producing spores. Green water is caused by an excessively large number of tiny organisms called phytoplankton. Bacteria can limit algae growth to keep your pond water clear.

Flocculants are often misused. They help clear water from organic debris, including dead algae. It has very little effect on living cells. As some research implies, the consumption of dead algae cells may contribute to the killing of living cells by the release of an antibiotic, so removing dead cells may actually inhibit natural control. There is a fine balance, however, as the dead cells also become a food source for a recurrent bloom.

If you have fish, no. These copper-based compounds use up a lot of oxygen while killing algae blooms, which can also suffocate your fish. The best way to remove algae is to scoop it out regularly!

A number of Aquascape products help balance your pond ecosystem:

Aquacleaner Extreme Dry: Contains heterotrophic bacteria, activated barley, and enzymes that aid in organic decomposition; use after your spring clean-out

Bioballs: Replace clogged lava rock with Bioballs, which add more surface area for bacterial colonization and won’t clog like lava rock.

EcoBlast: Controls string algae

EcoBarley: Prevents algae bloom through the decomposition of barley which releases peroxides that break down the cell walls of algae; takes 4-6 weeks to work (don’t use for bloom control, but prevention)

SAB Extreme: Prevents string algae by “locking up” calcium, which string algae need to develop its stringy profile

Yes. Aquatic plants are essential for a well-balanced, healthy aquatic ecosystem. They provide:

~ Oxygenation of the water through photosynthesis

~ Balance of excess nutrients

~ Shade and water temperature control

~ Shoreline stabilization and erosion control

~ Reduction of pollutants (natural filtering)

~ Food and habitat for aquatic animals and wildlife

~ Food and habitat for beneficial bacteria

~ Beautification of the pond

Too much of a good thing is not good. Aim for 50-60% total plant coverage in the water to protect the ecological balance of the pond. For best results, strive for a mix of plants:

~ Submerged plants (typically mosses that can easily be pulled out if they over-reproduce)

~ Floating plants like lily pads (no more than 20% of the water’s surface)

~ Shoreline plants that are rooted in shallow water and at the water’s edge (turf grass is not a shoreline plant!)

An excess of vegetation can cause problems, including:

~ Impeded water circulation

~ Blocked filtration and pump systems

~ Excess vegetative decay, which lowers water oxygen levels

~ Increased sedimentation

~ All floating plants create a barrier on the water surface; an excess will prevent oxygen exchange with the atmosphere and photosynthesis in the water, reducing oxygen in the water and increasing the potential for a fish kill.

Some algae growth during the warmer months is a natural part of the aquatic ecosystem. However, if algae cover more than 20% of the surface, water is more likely to become stagnant and could kill your fish.

Yes. While there is no quick fix, close monitoring of your system and on-the-go adjustments using proven products can maintain the health of your pond ecosystem and keep your water sparkling clean.